WW1 RC Planes: Choosing, Building and Flying Them
WW1 RC planes model the biplanes and triplanes of 1914–1918: the Sopwith Camel, Fokker Dr.I, SE5a, SPAD XIII, Albatros and Nieuport. They fly slowly and look wonderful, but short noses, small tails and biplane drag make them less forgiving than they look. This guide explains which types fly best, what to look for in a kit or ARF, and how to fly one.
By Kyle HilsonUpdated: October 20268 min read
Popular WW1 subjects
| Aircraft | Layout | As a model |
|---|---|---|
| Sopwith Camel | Biplane, very short nose | Iconic but twitchy; needs a careful CG |
| Fokker Dr.I | Triplane, short span | Slow and agile; lots of wing area in a small model |
| SE5a | Biplane, longer nose | One of the more stable WW1 subjects |
| SPAD XIII | Biplane, solid build | Fast for its era; flies steadily |
| Albatros D.V | Biplane, streamlined fuselage | Popular scale subject with striking colour schemes |
| Nieuport 17 | Sesquiplane (small lower wing) | Light, graceful flyer |
| Fokker D.VII | Biplane, thick wings | Docile handling; a good first WW1 model |
How WW1 models fly
- Short tail moments: the distance from wing to tail is small, so the plane reacts quickly in pitch and yaw.
- High drag: struts, wires and two or three wings slow the plane down quickly when you reduce throttle.
- Little dihedral and small rudders: they need coordinated rudder and aileron in turns.
- Ground handling: tail-skid layouts with narrow gear tend to swing on take-off; on grass this is easier than on asphalt.
Models of more forgiving types, such as the SE5a or Fokker D.VII, are a better first WW1 plane than the Camel. If you are new to flying altogether, start with a trainer; the RC airplanes guide explains why.
Choosing a model
- Size: bigger models (1.2 m span and up) fly more steadily and handle wind better than small park flyers.
- Construction: foam RTF/PNP models are quick to fly; balsa kits and ARFs offer more scale detail and a lighter, more realistic flight.
- Power: electric is simplest; large models can use petrol, and some builders fit scale dummy rotary engines over the real motor.
- Ailerons: four-channel models with ailerons are easier to fly precisely than rudder-only versions.
Building and scale detail
WW1 models invite detail: rigging wires, fabric covering with rib tapes, machine guns and pilot figures. Keep it light: every gram added at the tail needs more weight in the nose. Fabric or iron-on fabric coverings give the authentic look; see RC airplane covering. On biplanes, check that both wings have the incidence the plan specifies; rigging errors make the plane fly crooked.
Flying tips
- Balance at the front of the specified CG range for the first flights.
- Take off into the wind, with a little right rudder ready if the plane swings.
- Fly scale-like: wide, coordinated turns using rudder and aileron together.
- Keep speed on the landing approach; drag slows the plane quickly once you cut the throttle.
- Choose calm days; light biplanes with lots of wing area are pushed around easily.
FAQ
Are WW1 RC planes good for beginners?
Generally no. They fly slowly but react quickly and need coordinated control. Fly a trainer and a sport plane first, then pick a forgiving subject such as the SE5a or Fokker D.VII.
Why are triplanes like the Fokker Dr.I popular models?
They are instantly recognisable, have lots of wing area for their size and fly slowly. Their short tail makes them lively, so set the CG carefully.
Electric or petrol for a WW1 model?
Electric for small and medium models; petrol makes sense for large scale models, often hidden behind a dummy engine.
More on this topic: types of planes, building and learning to fly are covered in the complete RC airplanes guide.
About 20 years in RC. Mostly boats in the NAVIGA Mini Eco Expert class, with many self-made parts; also a King Motor Baja 5B, a home-built electric plane, home-built nitro planes he has flown, and an RC helicopter. More about SwellRC
